Sunday, January 27, 2013

Pongal at Goa - the Mahadev temple at Tamdi Surla

The river that flows by the side

At the edge of the Tamdi Surla sanctuary is the 12th century Mahadev temple.  This was where we came on our first evening at Goa, and subsequently another day too.

The first evening, we skirted the temple and did some birding in the forests around.  On the second visit, we visted the temple and trekked up to the upper parts of the river, in search of butterflies!

As I read the blue ASI board below, I once again realised how poor my history is!  So who were these Kadamba kings who supposedly built this temple that survived the Goa inquisition by virtue of being tucked away in this little wooded corner of Goa?

I was intrigued to learn on my return that they were the first rulers to use Kannada as an official language for administration!  The rulers before them, in Karnataka, were all from elsewhere it seems and so, Sanskrit was the mode of communication thus far.
The temple, viewed from the side.  It is still used for worship, and there is a lingam inside.

I was fascinated at the perfection of the circular pillars


Mayurasharman is believed to be the founder of this dynasty, earning his spurs by battling the Pallavas, and winning at Srisailam. (I read this in the Wikipedia page.)

They were Hindus to begin with, some later kings moving in to Jainism.

The Kadamba style of architecture is characterised by these temple shikaras, which are rather plain.

The material is basalt.
Amazing work on the ceiling

I particularly liked this bit.  If you click on the picture, you will appreciate it in more detail.  I wonder whether they were painted in the old days.


The view looking into the sanctum, where there is a lingam.  Legend has it that this has always been an abode for a king cobra.  I am glad I didn't know that earlier.  I would not have ventured in! There was a carving of a cobra on one of the panels too.

Beautiful carvings everywhere

The temple is ringed by hills, and there is an air of tranquility in the evenings, as the sun sets.  Supposedly, as the first rays come from the east, over the mountains, they light up the lingam.
Another piece of beautiful carving

The side of the shikara





As we re-crossed the bridge to head back, I was struck by this large fig tree on the banks of the river.  Ficus mysorensis, probably nurturing an entire ecosystem here, as all fig trees do.

6 comments:

  1. the architecture looks similar t o that of temples in karnataka.

    ReplyDelete
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